Garment Make Up

There are three main features to look for in the base layer make-up:

Flat seams: These are a must for any quality base layer garment. The fabric edges are laid on top of one another and are sewn flat. This is a timely exercise and can only be completed by experienced machinists. There is an inner seam and two outer seams, thus ensuring a flat surface and limiting any possible chaffing. The flat seam sewing machines are costly ($15,000 +) compared to a basic over-locker ($1,000).

Raglan cut sleeves: This style of sleeve eliminates chaffing if carrying either a backpack or hydration-pack, as there are no shoulder seams. Cheaper (and even the not so cheap) base layers avoid raglan sleeves and instead use set in style sleeves, like in a basic cotton T-Shirt, because they achieve a much better yield (up to 15% extra) when cutting up the fabric. Another advantage of raglan cut sleeves is when moving, lifting or reaching your arms, the waist of the garment will pull up far less than that of a garment with set in sleeves.

Hemming: Using correct blind stitch hemming at the cuffs and body basque will allow plenty of stretch. Cheaper stitch styles can lead to threads breaking and hems unfolding quite easily, when a garment is stretched.